Anthony Gismondi: The greatest wines are like Formula 1 — these picks win the race
Michel Rolland, the highly influential Bordeaux-based oenologist whose palate, opinions, and consulting permeated the modern wine world for more than five decades, passed away in Bordeaux in late March at the age of 78.
Rolland, a brilliant taster, wasn’t without his detractors, but it’s fair to say most of those who railed against his style of wine wouldn’t have had the opportunity to be heard had it not been for the resurgence of Bordeaux under Rolland’s vision and his friend Robert Parker.
Rolland was the original flying winemaker, and over the years, along with his wife, Daniele (Dany) Rolland, he worked with more than 150 wineries through Laboratoire Rolland. It is safe to say Rolland took a lot of ordinary wine to the next level by having his clients focus on less aggressive extraction, picking riper fruit, and using high-quality French oak.
Rolland worked widely in Bordeaux but had many famous clients around the world. In California, he consulted at Harlan, Staglin and Screaming Eagle, among others. In Italy, he had a hand in Ornellaia; in Chile, Casa Lapostolle blossomed under his care. There were other countries, including Spain, South Africa and India, but Argentina was his favourite. After consulting and opening a much-needed laboratory in Mendoza, he went on to put the region and Malbec on the international wine map along with his projects at Clos de los Siete and Bodega Rolland in the now-famous Uco Valley.
We first met in Mendoza. I was leaving a memorable first visit with Laura Catena when Rolland and his driver pulled up in the driveway. Catena mentioned he was going to hold a Merlot tasting for the team and asked if I was interested in joining. Some 50-60 individual block samples later, Rolland went on to dissect every glass and rate them in search of those that would make it to the final blend. It was an incredible tasting display, one I have never forgotten.
We next met in the south of France, where he was consulting for Robert Skalli, the owner of Fortant de France, a groundbreaking varietal wine project in the Languedoc. Skali had invited a small group of international wine critics to Siete to taste a singular Fortant de France Reserve Merlot he had hired Rolland to produce to enhance the brand, and Rolland was the perfect choice to talk Merlot. Our paths crossed several times over the years, around the globe in a tasting room.
While there were no official reports of Rolland working in Canada, he did consult at Mission Hill from 2001 to 2005. Who else but owner Anthony von Mandl could make all that happen quietly? Former director of wine education, Ingo Grady, says that Rolland collaborated with winemaker John Simes. “I remember his annual visits to Mission Hill to work with John and the team. Initially, we worked diligently to improve the quality of Oculus, the winery’s icon blend. Compendium and Quatrain followed later as the overall quality and maturing vineyards allowed for a portfolio expansion.”
Grady says: “Michel was a prolific, disciplined and meticulous taster, with tremendous stamina. The 2-3 day sessions would last all day until all 200-plus lots had been tasted and re-tasted. Most impressive was Michel’s ability to recall and present the various blending options to assemble the final blend.
Some of the improvements came from fastidious sorting of bunches and individual grapes. Gravity flows into small (65hl) oak fermentation vats. Barrel aging in 50 per cent new French oak barrels for 13-16 months, before filling into heavy, old-fashioned high-shouldered Bordeaux bottles for extended aging. Overall, the post-Roland wines, from 2005 forward, exhibit greater complexity and finesse.
Grady’s favourite Rolland quote: “The greatest wines are like Formula 1. Their performance is linked to the terroir first — people have a relatively low influence on the outcome; however, those who make adjustments successfully are those who win the race.”
Weekend wine picks
Passato Roero Arneis 2023, Langhe, Cuneo, Piedmont, Italy
$26.99 I 90/100
UPC:
857852002733
Passato originates from Roero, Piemonte, and is made entirely from Arneis grapes. It’s the quintessential white wine for summer in Piedmont, and for good reason. Its pale straw hue hints at a refreshing aroma of green apple and melon, with a subtle almond undertone. The mid-palate is all green apple and ripe pear flavours, sitting atop a mineral, stony, slightly bitter citrus base. The finish evokes a blend of guava and almonds. A delightful white wine perfect for relaxing on the patio, with West Coast seafood dishes or an Italian dinner classic: Aglio e olio — spaghetti with garlic and olive oil.
Pfaff Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Steinert 2022, Alsace, France
$34.95 I 92/100
UPC:
3185139087560
From limestone-rich Steinert in Pfaffenheim, this aromatic Gewurztraminer has a textured palate that captures your interest. Expect a blend of lychee, peach, spicy, floral-rose notes with honey, nutty, petrol, and sausage aromas. Complex, rich, and elegant, it is traditionally served with foie gras, but it also pairs naturally with spicy Asian dishes. The price has increased by $1 over the past two decades.
Anna Spinato Prosecco Organic Rosé N/V, Veneto, Italy
$21.99 I 88/100
UPC:
8011204007650
Packaging is important, though we rarely discuss it as much as what’s inside the bottle. However, the new embossed vine-leaf bottle highlights this excellent-value, certified organic Prosecco. The blend is 75/25 Glera with Pinot Nero, producing delicate strawberry, white peach, and citrus aromas and flavours, complemented by a creamy, persistent mousse streaked with minerals. Dry, crisp, and elegant, it has 11.5 per cent alcohol — perfect for lunch or an afternoon on the patio. It is very food-friendly.
Gérard Bertrand An 1886 Cotes du Roussilllon Villages Les Aspres Grenache Mourvedre Syrah
$27.99 I 89/100
UPC:
3514123106589
The AOP Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres exemplifies what makes the south of France so appealing. Two-thirds of this Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah blend was matured for nine months in barrels, while the remaining was kept in large vats to be blended in the spring. The appeal lies in its rich, soft textures and the generous mid-palate of cherries, licorice, pepper, and oak. I recently opened this and served it without any decanting, and the wine shone. It slips down smoothly and pairs well with root vegetables, pork, lamb, or beef. Great value, too.
Domaine Artema Gamay Village 2024, Washington State
$34.90 I 90/100
UPC:
696852122689
Finally, some finesse from a 2024 replacement wine. There is no mention of the exact fruit source, except for the generic made in Canada from imported ingredients. What we do know is that it has a charming, spicy attack with the perfect level of bright, juicy, tasty red fruit. It has a beautiful purple-red colour that previews a plummy, earthy Gamay that takes you to Beaujolais. The finish is medium to long, with light tannins. It is ready to drink with mushroom dishes.
B.C. wine of the week
Blue Mountain Pinot Noir Single Vineyard Block 9 Wild Terrain 2023, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley
$48 I 93/100
UPC:
626452571235
Wild Terrain remains the darkest and most complex of the single vineyard offerings. Drier and richer, it opens with notes of black cherry, plum, and blueberry, accompanied by a savoury underbrush and forest floor. The palate mirrors the nose, featuring more tea leaf, spicier hints, and dried herb streaks throughout the finish, along with subtle savoury spice. Less overtly fruity, Wild Terrain is more about power and structure, making it suitable for the richest menu items you choose. It will age gracefully through 2030, but can also be enjoyed now with duck or pheasant.
Value wine of the week
Paul Mas Sauvignon Blanc 2024, Vin de Pays d’Oc, Languedoc, France
$16.99 Litre Bottle I 87/100
UPC:
3760040420424
A challenging 20204 growing season ended with a smaller crop but high-quality fruit. Expect a gentle style of Sauvignon with very little pyrazine characters. Juicy lemon marks the palate, with a light watery finish. Best on a warm patio with simple seafood appetizers. Good value in a litre bottle.
Calendar items
Some positive wine news: Two top Canadian colleges from leading wine and agricultural regions are partnering to broaden access to high-quality education. Niagara College and Okanagan College have signed an agreement to bring NC’s acclaimed Winery and Viticulture Technician program to the Okanagan, enabling students to prepare for careers in Canada’s growing wine industry. The new curriculum is expected to launch at Okanagan College’s upcoming Centre for Food, Wine and Tourism in fall 2027. Currently under construction at the Kelowna campus, the Centre will feature food, beverage, and tourism programs, a new restaurant, courses from the Hall School of Business and Entrepreneurship, and other college-level offerings. For more information about programs at Okanagan College, visit okanagancollege.ca/food-wine-and-tourism. Details about Niagara College’s School of Wine, Beer and Spirits can be found at niagaracollege.ca/winebeerspirits.
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Celebrate Malbec World Day’s 15th anniversary with a complimentary Argentine Malbec tasting at Marquis Wine Cellars, Vancouver, on April 17. Guests are invited to explore a curated selection of wines from leading producers, including Terrazas de los Andes, Luigi Bosca, Catena, Salentein, Decero, and Kaiken. Tastings run 11 a.m.-6 p.m. at 1034 Davie Street, with additional Malbec-focused tastings taking place throughout April as part of Wine Flight Fridays. Schedule topics April 10: 3-6 p.m. Catena Vista Flores Malbec and Salentein Reserve Malbec; April 17: 11 a.m.-6 p.m.: six featured wines for Malbec World Day; April 24: 3-6 p.m. Decero Remolinos Vineyard Malbec and Kaiken Selección Especial Malbec. For more information, visit Marquis Wine Cellars in-store, online at marquis-wines.com, or follow along on social media for updates.
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Source: vancouversun.com