Anthony Gismondi: The Okanagan has something for everyone

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Today a midsummer catch-up with tips, shout-outs and some “listen-up folks” from a desktop covered in press releases, wine bottles and tasting glasses.

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I have been travelling most of the summer since the restrictions were lifted, but I was sure we would be back under stricter rules regarding COVID-19 based on what I saw in the Okanagan.

As I type this, the North Okanagan is getting a tune-up from B.C. health officials who have tightened restrictions on locals and visitors as unvaccinated or single vaccinated travellers have decided to give the virus new life endangering everyone around them.

If you are travelling in B.C. this summer, be aware that almost all businesses lack the people-power to operate at full capacity. That means longer lines, longer waiting times and reservations for hotels, restaurants, and tastings are a must. Even more important, you need to show up for your reservation because they depend on your pre-booked visit that has precluded anyone else from the seats you reserved. The number of no-shows has been shameful and costly for all businesses.

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Summer wildfires are now a fact of life in B.C., but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy a getaway. Educate yourself and on how to be safe. Check with your host regarding smoke before you travel, and you may be pleasantly surprised to learn that despite numerous fire photos on social media, it is not near as bad as you think wherever you may be headed.

Smoke damage can become a problem for winegrowers, although many factors can mitigate the damage to the vines and wines. Smoky skies will have little effect on the grapes before veraison when the grapes soften up and change colour, but after the colour change, prolonged days of smoke can get into the grape skins and can become a major issue for winemakers.

That said, smoky skies block the sun’s rays extending the growing season, which can be a good thing pre-veraison, allowing for later picks and the development of more fruit intensity. Unfortunately, it can also contribute to higher humidity levels, setting the stage for nasty fungal diseases rare in a dry, desert environment.

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OK, on to the good stuff. Here are several recommended stops worth checking out this summer and fall while you are wine touring. First, eating has vastly improved in the Okanagan, especially breakfast thanks to Wayne & Freda in Penticton; Sunny’s in East Kelowna, or Frind Estate in West Kelowna, where you can watch the sun come up beachside picnic tables with a coffee and croissant.

A favourite takeout option is at Blu Saffron Bistro at Volcanic Hills Winery in West Kelowna. Lunch or dinner on the decks at Quails’ Gate or Home Block Restaurant (CedarCreek) is a fabulous way to spend a few hours people watching and lake gazing. The Restaurant at Poplar Grove has upped its game and menu big time, think city dining on a spectacular country patio. Best casual Euro-style lunch can be had at DaSilva Winery just above the town of Penticton.

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If you are in the Similkameen Valley, look for the best sandwiches and coffee at The Farm Store in Cawston, or experience a full-on farm-fresh dinner at Row Fourteen at Klippers Organics amid the orchards. Winery stops in no particular order include: the fully renovated Checkmate Artisanal Winery, CedarCreek, Mission Hill, Hillside, Therapy Vineyards, Hester Creek, Bartier Brothers, Orofino Vineyards, Clos du Soleil, Liber Farms, Unsworth Vineyards, Blue Grouse, Enrico Winery, Church and State, Township 7, Peak Cellars and the list goes on.

Remember to take a supply of face masks with you and wear them where it’s appropriate. Wash your hands regularly, keep your distance and be kind. The trick is to keep the province open for all, but it all depends on you and your behaviour.

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Weekend wine picks

Tantalus Blanc de Blancs 2018, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$31.30 I 92/100

UPC: 626990332053

This Blanc de Blancs comes off a single block on the home Kelowna estate. It’s fermented in older puncheons and barrique to keep the fruit as pure as possible before aging on lees. The following May, it is transferred into the bottle for the secondary fermentation for 22 months of further lees contact. The nose is magic, mixing lees, brioche and subtle citrus notes. The palate opens with a fresh cut apple flavour before a rush of wet stony minerality kicks in and elevates the wine to another level. It is a stunning north Okanagan bubble with the balance and style that should effortlessly age if you don’t drink it all this year.

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Spier Chenin Blanc Signature Collection 2020, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa

$13.99 I 87/100

UPC: 00606655000299

My preference is for the skinnier, brighter style of Chenin Blanc with less perfume and more bright fruit. The Spier Signature Collection always presents fair value, and 2020 is no exception. A quick hit of S02 quickly dissipates, leaving a bright orchard fruit white that over delivers for $14. Ready to drink and varietally correct, you can’t go wrong.

Bodega Garzón Albariño Reserva 2021, Garzon, Maldonado, San José, Uruguay

$25-30 I 91/100

UPC: 7730951080112

Albarino has been the flagship white since the start at Garzon, with minor fine-tuning along the way, namely additional skin contact to better express the salinity of the soil thanks to the nearby Atlantic Ocean. The soil is incredibly poor, but the Albarino vines are accessing more and more minerality as the roots go deeper over time. Look for a brilliant pale yellow/greenish colour and a fresh aromatic seaside nose with peach and light citrus pith streaks on the palate. The attack is fresh and full of minerality. Here on the west coast, this east coast white will pair well with almost any seafood. It is a real shame you can’t buy this in government stores, but you can check with your local fine wine merchant.

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La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rosé 2019, Rhone Valley, France

$33.99 I 88/100

UPC: 00631470006355

One of the best value import pinks in the market is now available in a three litre bag-in-the-box format. Canadian producers have used this format for a lot of junk over the years, no doubt not lost on consumers, but this wine is what it should be, and at the equivalent of $8.50 per 750ml bottle, the price is unbeatable. Look for a dry, medium-pale pink rosé with vibrant, floral, jammy strawberry flecked with tangerine and licorice — food-friendly, patio pink.

Santa Julia Reserva Malbec 2017, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Mendoza, Argentina

$17.99 I 88/100

UPC: 7791728000566

This inexpensive gem is 100 per cent Uco Valley Malbec, all hand-picked. The ferment and maceration lasted just over 25 days, and a portion of the wine is aged in older oak freeing up the fruit. The nose is classic Zuccardi, red-fruited and fresh, mimicking cherries, plums and blackberries. The tannins are minimal but support the bright finish flecked with black licorice — serious yet simple stuff that over-delivers for the price. Back up the truck, again.

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Recipe: Spaghetti with herbs, roasted tomatoes and Sir Laurier

Fresh tomatoes and fine cheese are featured in this saucy dish. The dish, which can be made using the preferred pasta of your choice, would be wonderful on its own, or bulk up the dish with a fresh side salad and an added protein such as chicken or sausage.

Spaghetti with herbs, roasted tomatoes and Sir Laurier 

14 oz (400 g) cherry tomatoes

Olive oil, to taste

1 lb (454 g) spaghetti or other pasta

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

2 Sir Laurier cheeses (6 oz/170 g each), diced

1 cup (250 mL) fresh herbs, mixed and ground (parsley, basil, chives, tarragon and sage, for example)

1/2 cup (125 mL)) nuts such as almonds, whole nuts, etc., roasted and ground

Salt

Pepper

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Preheat the oven to 375º F (190º C)

Put the tomatoes on a baking tray, spray them with olive oil and season. Cook in oven for 10 minutes. Take out and set aside.

While the tomatoes are cooking, cook the pasta in large pot, until al dente. Strain them but keep 125ml of the water. Add the garlic, the Sir Laurier and the water kept from the pasta.

Stir until the cheese has melted. Add the herbs, half the nuts, season and stir. Serve straight away and add the rest of the nuts and the roasted tomatoes.

Serves six.

Recipe Match

Spaghetti with herbs, roasted tomatoes and Sir Laurier cheese all adds up to a bottle of Chianti for a classic meal.

Cecchi Chianti, Tuscany, Italy $14.99

A cheap night at home, Sangiovese comes with warm plummy fruit and a savoury, earthy underside to tackle the herbs and tomatoes.

Antinori Pèppoli Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy $26.99

A perfect earthy, cedary, spicy, full-flavoured Chianti Classico that pulls this dish altogether.