Eat Streets: A world of flavours on Vancouver’s Commercial Drive

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Exploring the restaurants that bring Metro Vancouver neighbourhoods to life.

If you want to know where to eat, ask a local.

At Attic Treasures, a gold mine of mid-century modern collectibles, proprietor Lillian Reimer has nearly 30 years of experience tasting what the north end of Commercial Drive, between Charles and Venables streets, has to offer.

Reimer has worked, and eaten, on The Drive every day for almost 40 years. Old favourites that reflected The Drive’s Italian heritage, like Federicos, have closed, but new restaurants reflecting diverse and changing demographics have opened. Part of what makes The Drive special is its strong identity as a family friendly, unconventional, bohemian zone that values supporting locally owned businesses. While pressures increase and development encroaches, the vibe has survived.

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“This was Little Italy,” she says as she unwraps an Italian panini from nearby Bosa Foods. “There is a lot more to choose from now.”

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Walkers on the north end of The Drive have spots to choose from, from the Michelin-recognized Lunch Lady to Havana, a vibrant Cuban-style watering hole with an arts and performance space in the back, as well as Indian, Italian, Japanese and Filipino spots ranging from casual to upscale. Take a leisurely long walk from the Commercial and Broadway SkyTrain Station, (but you may be waylaid by the tempting restaurants on the south end of The Drive), or take advantage of street parking to start at Charles Street and work your way north.

• In the 1200-block, Magari by Oca (formerly Oca Pastificio) is a captivating and cosy spot with black-and-white-tile flooring, and a chalkboard menu. At Magari by Oca, pasta is shaped and filled by hand at a bar, then dressed with seasonal fresh ingredients in an intimate setting. In 2022, the Michelin Guide lauded it with a Bib Gourmand, noting its “bistro charm,” authenticity and simplicity. Magari by Oca is walk-in only, so lining up before it opens at 5 p.m. is recommended. Open Wednesday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to late.

• If you have never nestled into a booth to talk art and politics, while downing mojitos at Havana, you may not really be a Vancouverite. Located at 1212 Commercial Dr., the artsy Cuban-style restaurant has been an institution since 1996. An update in 2022 brought in a tropical-oasis interior that retained its spirit and the much-loved graffiti wall that more than one regular has added to over the years. Features a massive patio, great brunch dishes and a newly renovated “flamingo room” performance space. Hours: Monday to Thursday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday: 10 a.m. to midnight.

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• The Portuguese Club of Vancouver at 11 Commercial Dr. features homestyle Portuguese cooking in an old-world, casual atmosphere. Think grilled sardines, prawns Piri-Piri, Bacalho and the Portuguese version of steake frites: Bitoque with a fried egg on top with Portuguese fries. An institution since its founding on Kingsway in 1962. Only open Wednesday and Thursday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Hours may change.

This was Little Italy. There is a lot more to choose from now.

Attic Treasures owner Lillian Reimer

• Kulinarya Filipino Eatery at 1134 Commercial Dr. is as warm and welcoming as your Filipino cousin’s kitchen. With an eclectic decor, colourful cocktails and delicious Filipino stables like Pancit Canton, stir-fry egg noodles, crispy deep-fried whole Tilapia and Kamayan — an eat-with-your-hands feast of grilled meats, fish, dipping sauces and jasmine rice served on banana leaf — expect fun and flavourful meals. Closed Mondays. Open Tuesday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Reservations recommended.

• The riches continue at the Sula Indian Restaurant. The sumptuous interior features vintage wood cabinetry from India, an indoor garden and a charming bar space. The 1128 Commercial Dr. restaurant opened in 2010. Sula’s Davie Street location was voted Best Indian and Best Chain in the 2025 Vancouver Magazine Restaurant awards for its mix of South and North Indian cuisine.

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• Continue north, and stop at a tattoo shop, a local barber or pop into the Dante Italian Sandwich shop at 1110 Commercial Dr. Opened in November 2025 as a sister shop to their popular Robson Street location, however owners Dom and Frank Morra have roots in the hood. The duo own the nearby Via Tevere on Victoria Drive. Open 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily on The Drive, where all your mortadella, pistachio, eggplant and fresh mozzarella longings will be satisfied. Sandwiches served on homemade schiacciata, a Tuscan-style home baked bread.

Reimer hasn’t tried Dante’s yet, but it’s on her list.

• No trip to this part of The Drive would be complete without a stop at Mi Tierra Latina, a Latin grocery store where you will be greeted with a friendly shout-out when you walk in. A tiny bar in the window is the perfect place to chow-down on snacks from the shelves or indulge in the freshly made tacos served street-style at the back of the store. Try Pastor, Carnitas, Tinga de Pollo, Chicharrón en salsa roja or the vegan Pastor option, and pick up your favourite salsas, tortillas, dulces, trimmings for a Latin fiesta and even specialized kitchen utensils on the way out.

• Lunch Lady at 1040 Commercial Dr. is globally recognized thanks to a shout-out from Anthony Bourdain, who loved the legendary food of a Ho Chi Minh street stall run by Nguyễn Thị Thanh, who he dubbed “The Lunch Lady.” Local Vietnamese Canadian entrepreneur Michael Tran and his mother Victoria Tran opened the Lunch Lady on Commercial to rave reviews in 2020, on a coveted Michelin Bib Gourmand, and later expanded to Toronto. Serving humble street-food favourites like Pho and crispy spring rolls, as well as less traditional but equally delicious dishes, like garlic fried noodles in XO garlic butter with Parmigiano, the Lunch Lady has become a popular stop on the north end of Commercial at 1046. Reservations required.

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• Mogu Fried Chicken, a favourite of Reimer’s, opened in 2020 by Yuji and Kumiko Aoki, who had previously run a much-loved Japanese fried-chicken food truck. At Mogu, you can enjoy crispy, savoury fried chicken, Japanese craft beer and whiskey flights, or take out. Reimer recommends pairing the crispy chicken with their popular Mogu salad: kale, cabbage, avocado, black sesame seeds and apple vinaigrette. “Who would believe a kale salad could be so good?” she asks.

• Absinthe Bistro at 952 Commercial Dr. features a classic bistro interior that will take you to Paris without breaking the bank: think dark wood, glittering crystal chandeliers and a daily prix fixe menu, and the classics: escargots, onion soup and apple tartlet. There’s even a 20 per cent discount if you’re catching a show at The Cultch. Reservations recommended. Open Wednesday to Sunday, with tables available at 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Closes two hours after last reservation.

• London Fish and Chips, formerly known as the Windjammer, has changed its name but still delivers the same fish and chips they’ve been famous for since the 1970s. They even served Queen Elizabeth during her 1971 Royal Tour, for which, local lore suggests she gave a rave review including a thank-you letter from Buckingham Palace. “They still do a really good job,” said Reimer.

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Along the way there are plenty of other places to drop in including Vancouver Donair at 933 Commercial Dr. (closes at 4 p.m.); vegan options from longtime staple Sweet Cherubim at 1105 Commercial Dr.; or sweets from the Licorice Parlour at 1002 Commercial Dr.

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Eat Streets: What to know about this stretch of Commercial Drive

Location: Commercial Drive between Charles and Venables Streets.

Number of restaurants and food options: 21

What are the options for parking?

Commercial Drive has has plentiful street parking with two-hour time restrictions. Most side streets are permit-only.

What are Metro Vancouver’s Eat Streets?

This article is part one of a series highlighting Metro Vancouver’s must-visit Eat Streets. With the goal of celebrating — and maybe even introducing you to — stretches of community around the region that have a notable concentration of local food businesses. Know of a great Eat Street in your community? Let us know where. Email us at artslife@vancouversun.com.

Read about more of Metro Vancouver’s Eat Streets:

• Eat Streets: A United Nations of cuisine on Vancouver’s Victoria Drive
• Eat Streets: Langley City’s one-way a hub of local food
• Eat Streets: Delta and Surrey unite over food on this stretch of Scott Road
• Eat Streets: Comfort food served Hong Kong-style at Richmond’s Empire Centre

Bookmark THIS PAGE to read the latest instalment every Wednesday.

Then and now: Commercial Drive in pictures

dryan@postmedia.com

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